What's It Like Taking The Step Into Extreme Climbing In The Lake District?

GUEST POST by CHRIS WITTER

Taking the step into climbing extremes can seem daunting – at least, it’s felt daunting to me! But if you’re placing good gear, have spent time developing your basic skills and have built up confidence at VS and HVS, you may find that in reality E1 is not only achievable, but already in-line with the difficulty of some of the harder routes you’ve done. Either way, it’s worth stepping out of your comfort zone because getting on E1 routes means accessing more involved and enjoyable climbing on memorable routes.

Slit Wall on Hare Crags. Photo credit Jon Read https://www.flickr.com/photos/readza/

One thing that can add to the nervousness in taking on E1 routes is the dawning awareness that not all climbs of the same grade are equal: HVS, in particular, is a grade where one route can feel like a path whilst the next can feel like the living end. For this reason, I’ve selected six routes that I think provide a great initiation and, whilst being fair at E1, are toward the lower end of the grade. It is also a list that takes you around Cumbria, including to some less-frequented crags.

I remember reading in David Craig’s Native Stones a comment from the author’s son, that he felt he had to climb harder routes because VS and HVS “no longer feels sufficiently refreshing”. I hope some of these climbs might quench your thirst.

Conclusion (E1 5b), Shepherds Crag in Borrowdale

‘Conclusion’ was my first E1, attempted in part because all the VS and HVS routes were occupied on a busy day with two climbing clubs installed at this popular crag. But, I also got on it because its blue-grey corner, with a steep crack on the left and smooth flat holds on the right, looked so doable and so tempting. That sense of temptation was a powerful thing to tap into – the authentic desire to try brilliant-looking lines is what should be motivating us, rather than box ticking.

This route isn’t the easiest on the list, but the friendly location and good gear help to make it feel approachable. The starting corner is the hardest section; make sure you place gear in the ragged crack carefully. Above this a cave provides a rest, then the route eases to a 5a traverse right and up into a much easier groove above. If you’ve done Eve and Adam and routes on the Fisher’s Folly wall, why not try this?

One to come back for is Aaros (E1 5b) – a thrillingly thin, technical and subtle line.

Slit Wall (E1 5b), Hare Crags in Eskdale

Eskdale is a beautiful valley and Hare Crags, though less-frequented, are really worth a visit. The rock is immaculate granite (if a bit mossy in places), dries quickly with a southerly wind and sunshine, and kestrels and buzzards buzz past as you climb. A good warm-up route here is Fireball XL5 (VS 4b), which should give you a feel for the rock. The cracks tend to be flared, so gear can be fiddly at times, though the solidity of the rock makes a sinker nut or cam reliable.

Slit Wall starts up a crack/groove in a steep wall (5a/5b), then kicks you out onto an easy-angled slab where the climbing is easier (4b?). Plenty of gear is available in the groove, especially toward the top where the hardest moves are, but you have to look for it. Likewise, gear is spaced on the slab, but can be found with a little effort.

The slab above has a few similar offerings, but be careful with your line as some options are blanker and more gearless than others. There are also a number of slightly harder E1s to the right of Slit Wall.

Shepherd’s Crag, Borrowdale

The Fang Direct (E1 5a), Gouther Crags in Swindale

Gouther, like Hare Crags, has a wonderful feeling of being in a quiet and isolated valley – not least because you arrive via a maze of winding narrow country roads. The walk-in takes you through bog with beautiful wild-flowers, and there are small mammals and raptors to spot, with a pair of kestrels frequently to be found nesting near Fang Buttress. The crags themselves are impressive and picturesque – looming above the valley, lost among deciduous trees. Nonetheless, the rock is good, grippy and mostly clean.

The Fang Direct takes a devious line up a pillar of rock that seems steeper than it is. Gear is spaced, with two run-out sections, so make sure you take the gear opportunities that exist and consider placing more than one piece of gear at each of these, so you aren’t relying on only one placement should you take an unexpected lob. The climbing, though, is steady and enjoyable, with good holds and friction. Take a deep breath and enjoy!

Descent by abseil may be preferable to the steep, dank groove running down under One Step Beyond (E4 6a). Do consider backing up any “abseil station” you find.

If you enjoyed The Fang Direct, Hernia (E1 5b) on the Truss Buttress is an excellent follow-up. A steep start up a right-slanting crack culminates in a tricky and committing 5b crux, followed by easier (4c/5a) climbing to the top. Gear is good if you take care.

Razor Crack (E1 5b), Neckband Crag in Langdale

Neckband Crag is a perfect option for a hot day: facing north, you’ll be climbing in the shade whilst others are turning shiny and red on the south-west-facing skillet of Gimmer. The only problem is the forced-march up the Band to get there! This is another crag that feels pleasantly less-travelled; the bright rock pillars, ramps and sweeping roofs are impressive, too, even though some parts of the crag are covered in varicoloured mosses and are perhaps better abandoned to the botanists.

One of the most logical and striking lines is that of Razor Crack, which heads up steep ground to good gear, before stepping right and pulling through a small roof. From here a continuous crack heads up through two more small roofs, with the upper one providing the crux. The climbing is excellent – thoughtful and varied, but never desperate – whilst the gear is on-demand and in solid rock. Make sure to take plenty of draws and consider doubling some of your medium cams.

Once initiated, this crag is a great secret for mid-summer and there are plenty of other quality lines - Cravat is an underrated VS, whilst Gillette Direct and Tracheotomy are particularly good at E2 5c – leads for the future!

Abseiling down past One Step Beyond (E4 6a) on Gouther Crag

Do Not Direct (E1 5b), White Ghyll in Langdale

Another Langdale crag, the steep, scree-filled gash of White Ghyll may seem like an intimidating place on first acquaintance, but it is home to many Lakeland classics put up by climbing pioneers of the past, including Jim Birkett, Arthur Dolphin, Joe Brown and Allan Austin. The crag has routes for everyone, and it is worth seeking out the devious VS lines of Haste Not, White Ghyll Wall and Gordian Knot, as well as the brilliant technical climbing of Laugh Not (HVS 5b) – a Joe Brown mega classic that is reputedly the hardest three star route of its grade in Langdale. If you’ve managed these routes, Do Not Direct – a Jim Birkett first ascent – is not a big step up, though its steep line, visible from the Sticklebarn pub garden, may not appear as amenable as it is.

The route is accessed by steep scrambling up heather steps, which, excepting the descent, is likely the most objectively dangerous part of the climb. Take the undercut slab easily up to a large spike below a steep crack. This crack is the crux of the route, but gives opportunities for great gear. Confidence is key, here: the crack and wall give better holds than may at first appear and keeping moving is the important thing. Nonetheless, reaching the belay cave (shared with Slip Knot, a very enjoyable MVS) will probably bring welcome relief!

Pitch 2 requires a bold approach – but due to the mounting exposure rather than a lack of gear. Head up a narrow ramp/shallow corner system until forced left, to make big moves, on huge holds, up and around the arete. This pitch is a good opportunity to reflect on how fun the climbing can be at E1, as you look out from your perch with the valley dropping away 200 metres beneath your feet.

Gethsemane (E1 5b), High Crag in Buttermere

Buttermere has really varied climbing, from the spooky slate crags of the Honister Pass to the quality rhyolite of the high combes, and from the esoteric to the classic (Peascod’s 500ft tour de force of 1940, Eagle Front) to the merely delightful. One of the finest crags in the area, though, is the north-facing High Crag – another sound choice for a scorching summer day.

The approach is steep and even moving around the crag can be tricky, with many of the routes beginning from ledges that can only be accessed by scrambling, and abseil usually a better option than the grade 3 “walk off”. Everything also tends to be covered in a thin layer of moss – the unfortunate result of the crag’s aspect and its inaccessibility. But, the lines here, from VS to E1, are of a quality that makes them stand out within the Lakes as a whole – with jutting roofs, soaring aretes and continuous 25m crack lines.

Gethsemane takes one of the most notable of these cracks, from a high ledge on the northern side of the crag, direct up a steep slab to a pronounced roof, which the route takes head on before finishing up an easy groove. The climbing is very well protected by medium cams, with gear almost on-demand and there are two significant rests: just before the crux in the middle of the route, and just before the roof. However, the hand and foot jamming techniques required are not to found in most climbing gyms, and the crux for many of the “new generation” will be in the middle of the route, where the feet appear to run out and the jams become flared and awkward. Keep making upward progress, however possible, and you will be rewarded with steep jug pulling and a fantastic view from the top over Buttermere, Honister, Haystacks and Gable.

Make sure to take in some of the other classics whilst you’re here, including the hilarious struggle that is High Crag Buttress (HVS 5a), and note the clean arete of The Philistine (E1 5b), which is the classic of the crag for bold leaders who are comfortable at the grade. If you get down to the lake before the temperature drops, you might swim out into the cool water and pick out the lines as you float on your back, looking up at the crag and contemplating your next visit.

About the author

Raised on brown bread in the flat lands of the Fens, Chris Witter moved to Lancaster in 2005 to study English Literature and gradually fell in love with the Cumbrian fells. He has been trad climbing since 2015 and is an avid reader of climbing history. He also enjoys bouldering, sport climbing, winter mountaineering, fell running and most other good excuses to be outside. He holds the Rock Climbing Instructor qualification and is planning to work toward the Mountaineering & Climbing Instructor award, but currently moonlights in various university teaching and administrative roles to fund his climbing gear habit. He is a mentee on our Chris Ensoll Mountain Mentor programme.

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