Many things in climbing and mountaineering are cut-and-dried. A rope will take a maximum shock loading before it will break. Navigating off the top of Ben Nevis in thick cloud requires accuracy in the distance and the direction. But some things are more art than science, and short roping is one of them. Yet for a Mountain Guide it is literally the difference between life and death.
Read MoreEvery Alpine season is different, but this year has been really different. Following a summer working at home in the Lake District, I had planned a short sharp Alpine season, 23rd August to 13th September. I had two long-ish bookings, both 1:1, and by huge coincidence both clients wanted to climb the Matterhorn and the Mittelegi Ridge on the Eiger.
Read MoreMy first Alpine season was in 1983. I was twenty years old, enthusiasm far outweighing ability, and I was up for anything. The trip was safe and successful largely because my climbing partner was older and wiser than me, and more experienced. If you’re planning a trip to the Alps, here are some things to consider:
Read MoreUsing line features (paths, streams, walls, etc) as a primary source of info when navigating in the mountains is very common, but in reality they are more useful as a secondary source of info, and this is why:
Being gluten- and lactose-intolerant means that I can’t eat anything containing wheat, oats, barley, rye, and milk or mild products. Lots of the usual expo food items are out for me – pasta, butties, cheese, chocolate, most breakfast cereals including porridge, and many of the standard dried expo meals. Over the years I have tried different combinations of energy-dense food that is compact, lightweight and low on packaging.
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