A Classic Rock Adventure Around The UK

WRITTEN by ANNE ENSOLL, TOM HILEY & CHARLES EGGLESTON

For many years we’ve had a Classic Rock page on our website, where we offer different options for completing all fifteen Lake District climbs in Ken Wilson’s Classic Rock book. We’ve had few takers over the years, but we haven’t yet completed all fifteen with any one client. Tom Hiley and Charles Eggleston have been clients since 2019, and between them they’ve done lots of different things with Chris, including a visit to the Cuillins, Mountain Leader assesment, and lots of climbing in the Lakes. Last year they came up with a new challenge for themselves, and they asked Chris to help them complete it. This is their story so far…

Charles leading Flying Buttress at Stanage Edge in the Peak District

How did you get started on this adventure?

Tom

During one of the numerous lockdowns my climbing partner, Charles, and I decided that we needed a specific project to focus our attention on when we were released as otherwise we would just be running around like kids in a sweet shop, with all this pent up energy, doing an average job of on an awful lot of different climbs. We therefore set ourselves the target of doing all Ken Wilson’s Classic Rock climbs over the next two years. With this in mind, we contacted Chris about leading some of the more punchy multi-pitch climbs as we’ve had a habit of getting lost on a few in the past. We also felt that with Chris on the team we’d also learn a lot on the way as well…..as you always do. We’d no sooner sent the email and Chris was on the phone wanting to get some dates in the diary….with just a hint of excitement in his voice. To date, we’ve done all the classics in the Lakes, about 90% in Wales and the Peak District and we’ve still got Scotland and the South West to start.

Charles

Tom and I have been working with Chris to tick off the Classics as a post lockdown objective. Even with weather stopping play a few times, we’ve now managed to tick off all of the Lakes, most of the Peaks and now, a big chunk of the North Wales routes. With our planned Scottish week earlier in the year failing due to atrocious weather we’ve learnt to be very flexible.

Tom seconding Via Dolorosa at the Roaches in the Peak District.

How has the plan gone?

Tom

So far so good! I think the one thing you need more than anything is flexibility…..not in your climbing but in your ability to change plans and change locations at the last minute due to the weather. We had a week in the diary to go to Scotland, and we ended doing days in the Lakes, a couple of days in the Peak District and a day at the climbing wall!

Charles

Working with Chris and the enormous experience he has, has made an huge difference to our objective. From working out a plan, cramming in more than we thought possible, speed and safety. All of these plus a lot of fun has made it an experience we would both recommend.

Tom leading Bracket & Slab on Gimmer Crag in the Lake District. Photo credit: Charles Eggleston.

What have been the highlights?

Tom

The simple response is ‘all of it!’ After buying a copy of Classic Rock and reading the various commentaries on each climb by well known climbers you already have a good understanding of the climb before you even set off. Each one has been identified as being a classic, rather than just a grade from a guide book. You start every climb with a knowledge and understanding that you wouldn’t usually have. Everytime I did one of them, I asked myself ‘why is this a classic’ and everytime I finished I knew why Mr Wilson had put it in the his book. Perhaps it was the location, or just one particular move that made you smile…..but without fail there was a reason everytime and each climb had its own character!

Charles

Over a week of long days and everything from boiling sunshine to pouring rain, we covered some great routes in Llanberis Pass, Ogwen and LLiwedd plus the rather more remote Will of the Wisp. Like anybody who has done these routes you have to be impressed by the individuals that did the first ascents. The rock may now be polished and slippy in the wet but at least we have modern equipment to protect us.

What have been the low points?

Tom

The weather and the popularity of the routes. Obviously you can’t do anything about the weather but the popularity of these routes has meant that they’re polished in places and you have to be prepared to get out of bed early or climb late into the evening to get the crag to yourself. It’s hardly a low point….more of an inconvenience!

Chris leading the top pitch of Bracket & Slab on Gimmer Drag in the Lake District. Photo credit: Charles Eggleston.

What’s your favourite route and why?

Tom

The stand out climb for me has to be Tophet Wall. Its a proper grown up climb in a stunning location surrounded by grades that I will only ever dream of! Situated on the side of Great Gable, the walk-in sets the mood for the day as you’re surrounded by the full Lake District splendour. The climbing is positive with good hand and foot holds, and the exposure is something else with big views in all directions. I found myself grinning and chuckling as I swung leads with Charles… and the only disappointment was that it finished so soon. But the positive is that you get to do Napes Needle after you’ve finished which is a fantastic finale.

Charles

Picking a favourite in Wales is a difficult call as all of the routes have something special. For me, the length and route finding on Lliwedd was most memorable.

What is your least favourite route and why?

Tom

Without doubt, Murrays Route on Dow Crag. There is something about Dow Crag that puts me on edge. The first time I saw it I was doing my navigation leg for my Mountain Leader assessment on the side of Coniston Old man and it looked intimidating then. The only word I can use to describe it is sinister! I’ve never seen it in the sun, its always in the shade looking dark and menacing… so when we marched up to it in the spring late in the evening with snow on some of the summits it was firing on all cylinders. The climbing was OK but it was so cold. I had about 10 layers on and I couldn’t feel any of the holds so I was pleased that Chris had led this and was shouting encouragement from the pointy end. Needless to say I’m going to go back and do it again when its slightly warmer.

Chris leading Milestone Direct Route, Tryfan, north Wales. Photo credit: Charles Eggleston

What could have been done differently and why?

Tom

Nothing. Chris has climbed all the routes multiple times and so is invaluable at giving fantastic feedback on the route and shouting encouragement as and when you need it. In addition, Chris never stops giving you coaching tips on every aspect of climbing… so its fair to say that our climbing has improved exponentially as a result of the tips and tweaks that he has thrown at us along the way.

Whats next on the list?

Tom

Scotland. Its a big place with some big climbs that have huge walk-ins. Again Chris’s knowledge will be invaluable as we don’t want to waste valuable time debating the best way to walk in. This was proven when we climbed at Pillar Rock, where we cycled in from Ennerdale. Without the bike it would have made it a very long and tiring day… which in turn could have compromised the amount of climbing that we could get done.

Charles

We’re aiming to pick up the routes in the South West during October and then it’s down the Scottish list as the final and probably most remote ones.

Tom and Charles at the bottom of Lliwedd in north Wales

Whats your next challenge when you’ve completed the list?

Tom

As yet, we haven’t got any as we’ve still got quite a way to go and we’re both in the consolidation phase of the Rock Climbing Instructor award which is taking a bit of time. The one thing that we are doing though, is doing the classic climbs that Chris has led and guided by ourselves - swinging the leads. I appreciate that this removes some of the mystery of the climb as you’ve already done it, but we both feel that you can’t truly say you’ve done a climb until you’ve led it… and the icing on the cake is that it gives us an excuse to do them again with a lot more grinning as we know what to expect.

Charles

Once completed we’ll be going back to all of the crags to do other routes but hopefully get back out to the Alps as Covid dissipates. Fingers crossed.

Tom approaching the top of Direct Route on Glyder Fach, north Wales.

What about you?

If you’re interested in completing all the Classic Rock climbs, you can download a list here. If you need some help, send us an email - we’re looking forward to hearing from you!